Season's Round Up # 8: MUGLER, MC QUEEN & SIMONS SPRING SUMMER 2013 MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHTS
With the SS2013 Menswear Collections nearing it's fruition and the SS2013 Couture Shows just a week away, I thought I would write about highlights of some of the other designers that I thought had a good showing the past few days - MUGLER
First up would be the work of Nicola Formichetti for the avant garde house of Mugler. This season, much like most fashion houses, we saw Formichetti exploring and playing with black & white colors – difference is the play is in its duality. We also saw a lot of unique and architecturally inspired cuts that is oh so rare in menswear. The whole collection felt very empowering and edgy, given the razor sharp cutout dominant couture that went down the runway. Though I must say, the collection is not as easily wearable/accessible as those of other designers, given its fashion forward feel. At the same time, it is because of this differentiating vibe that made the collection stand out and there are pieces -specifically the accessories & footwear - that I must say are worth the investment for SS2013. One of which would be the gorgeous cutout sandals available in a wide selection of neutral colors, and of course the reptile inspired belts and shoes in bright hues.
ALEXANDER MC QUEEN
I have very little to say about the Mc Queen collection from Sarah Burton - but all in good faith. It had a very simple, yet ethereal theme, focusing on designs that evoked a modern day take on the character of Dorian Gray. Color and texture played dominantly in the collection that brought to life the idea of a present day dapper gentleman. The looks above are amongst my favorites given the distinctive play of metallic colors that evoked a sense of varying textures. I also adored the use of dragonflies as a print on the ensembles, which I thought evoked a renewed sense of eeriness and whimsy vs. the brand's use of it's classic skull print. If these looks are not to your liking, fret not as the collection had a LOT of pieces that are more suited to everyday wear.
With the pressure on for the showing of his very first couture collection for the house of Dior next week, Raf Simons has stepped up to the plate and shown the world why he is Creative Director with the eccentric SS2013 Menswear collection he launched this week. Androgyny was a central theme mixed with the powerful influence of art. I adored the contrast of tailored and constrained tops with the free spirit vibe of uber short shorts & sneakers - perfect mix of free-flowing form & function. Much like other collections, the color scheme was focused on somber shades of grays, blacks & whites with the occasional showing of bright colors like tangerine and grapefruit. What I thought was inspired would have to be the use of abstract art, reminiscent of Picasso's works, on shirts - where as the collection progressed more and more you see it on gender-bending pieces. Definitely would love to have those sleeveless long shirts that he paired with shorts - very fashion forward!